If there is one experience in Vietnam I would gladly relive again and again, it’s a cruise on Halong Bay. More than just a sightseeing trip, a Halong cruise is a journey through time – from the simplicity of wooden boats decades ago to today’s floating palaces with five-star services.

Halong Bay itself needs no introduction. Recognized by UNESCO as a World Natural Heritage Site, the bay is home to nearly 2,000 limestone karsts and islets rising majestically from emerald waters. But the way travelers experience this wonder has changed dramatically. Once, cruising Halong meant sharing meals with local families on small wooden junks; now it can mean sipping champagne in a private balcony suite aboard a steel mega-yacht.

In this story, I’ll take you through both worlds – the nostalgic charm of “old” Halong cruises and the polished sophistication of modern ones.

My Memory of “Old Halong Cruises” – Simplicity and Serenity

Wooden Boats and Family Hospitality

My very first trip to Halong Bay was over a decade ago. Back then, cruises were not yet the industry they are today. Most vessels were small wooden junks, run by local families. They had a few modest cabins, creaky fans, and basic bedding. Bathrooms were shared, and meals were served on deck at a wooden table.

It wasn’t glamorous, but it was authentic. Boarding those boats felt like stepping into someone’s home rather than a commercial service. The owners doubled as captains, cooks, and guides, making the journey warm and personal.

Spontaneous Journeys, Close to Nature

Cruises had no fixed itineraries then. Routes depended on weather or guest requests. Sometimes we stopped at a tiny beach to swim, sometimes we paddled bamboo boats into quiet caves like Sung Sot (Surprise Cave) before they became crowded.

What I remember most is the silence – no engines humming loudly, no hordes of boats around. Just the sound of oars dipping into water and seabirds echoing off limestone cliffs. It felt like we had the entire bay to ourselves.

Rustic Meals and Local Flavors

One evening, the family grilled squid right on deck, added a plate of boiled crabs, and served it with a bowl of homemade fish sauce. We sat together under lantern light, eating with our hands and sharing stories. The food was simple, but it tasted like the sea itself – fresh, salty, and unforgettable.

Strengths and Weaknesses

Looking back, those cruises offered:

• Strengths: Privacy, authenticity, affordable prices, and closeness to nature.
• Weaknesses: Minimal facilities, inconsistent safety standards, and very limited entertainment.

Still, that rustic charm was magical in its own way.

Returning to Halong “Today” – Modern Comforts and Luxury

Fast forward to my recent return to Halong Bay, and I could hardly believe my eyes. The humble junks of the past still exist, but now they share the water with multi-deck steel cruise ships, some rivaling five-star resorts.

Professional and Structured Itineraries

Unlike the spontaneous journeys of old, modern cruises follow well-organized itineraries. When I booked, I received a full schedule: kayaking at Luon Cave, visiting Ti Top Island, cooking classes in the afternoon, squid fishing at night, tai chi at sunrise. Everything was carefully planned and timed.

At first, I thought I would miss the unpredictability of the old days, but I soon realized that structure has its benefits: you can experience more in less time, and nothing feels rushed.

Floating Hotels with Full Amenities

Stepping aboard my five-star cruise felt like entering a luxury hotel lobby: marble floors, chandeliers, and uniformed staff offering welcome drinks. The ship had a restaurant, spa, jacuzzi, gym, even a small pool on deck.

My cabin was larger than many city hotel rooms, with a plush bed, glass-walled bathroom, and private balcony overlooking the bay. At night, I fell asleep to gentle waves while wrapped in crisp white sheets – worlds apart from that wooden bed years ago.

Activities Beyond Sightseeing

The real surprise was how interactive cruises have become:

• Morning tai chi classes on the sundeck as the sun rose over karsts.
• Kayaking into hidden lagoons and caves.
• Visits to fishing villages, where locals still mend nets and row bamboo coracles.
• Evening cooking lessons, where we learned to make fresh spring rolls.
• Nighttime squid fishing, with laughter as much as actual catch.

Each activity added layers to the journey, making it not just sightseeing but an immersive experience.

Fine Dining on the Water

Meals are no longer just seafood caught that morning. On board, I was treated to buffets with Vietnamese specialties alongside sushi, pasta, and steak. One night, we had a fine dining dinner with multiple courses served under candlelight – all while drifting through one of the most scenic bays in the world.

I’ll admit: I sometimes missed the smoky grilled squid of the past, but the quality, variety, and presentation today are hard to beat.

Strengths and Weaknesses

• Strengths: Luxury amenities, professional service, international standards of safety, and diverse activities for all ages.
• Weaknesses: Higher costs (some cruises rival city hotels), and during peak season, the bay can feel busy with dozens of ships.

Balancing Modernization and Authenticity

Experiencing Halong Bay on both “old” and “new” cruises has taught me something important: each era has its charm. The old days offered raw beauty, privacy, and rustic authenticity. The present offers luxury, convenience, and variety.

Modernization has undoubtedly helped Halong Bay attract international travelers and upscale markets, bringing economic growth to the region. But I believe it’s equally important to preserve the bay’s soul: the silence, the local culture, the natural heritage.

For me, the perfect Halong experience would blend the two: the authenticity and simplicity of the past, combined with the comfort and safety of the present.

Halong Bay – A Journey Through Time

Cruising Halong Bay has been, and always will be, a highlight of traveling in Vietnam. Whether it’s sipping tea on a wooden junk with local fishermen or raising a glass of wine on a five-star balcony, the essence remains the same: Halong Bay is breathtaking.

The limestone karsts haven’t changed, the emerald waters are still there, and the sunrise is just as magical. What has changed is how we experience it – and both versions, past and present, are worth cherishing.

As Halong Bay continues to grow as a global destination, I hope it will maintain that delicate balance between development and preservation. Because once you’ve seen the sun rise over Halong, from any kind of boat, you’ll understand why it’s called one of the most beautiful bays in the world.